Beautiful two-day trip with CAI Treviglio ... climbed Mount Pollux to the west ramp, in excellent condition with hard snow and carrier.
laciate the first day the car in St Jacques (Val d'Ayas-AO-), by taxi Jeep will climb to the top floor of the backpacker trail to go up 7 up has no reach the modern refuge Guide Val d'Ayas, the weather is nice but the dark clouds bring ice water in the evening. The climate inside the shelter and made warm and jovial laughter and stories genpy, thanks to a friendly and sympathetic to the refugees.
the second day, woke up at 4:45 ... .. 5:30 am breakfast shod crampons ice axes in hand superioriore ascend the glacier to the west and the slide as it is in perfect condition we get it ... short summit ridge. . .. peak at 8.00 we are great ...
return a long and endless segagambe descent of 2400 meters. ... But all training devastating as they say.
the floor will
the ranks of the CAI Treviglio
Shelters and Mezzalama Guide Val d'Ayas
last steps of the Val d'Ayas Guides hut
the collection
Group summit in
Report from the Internet with added precision parts from David A.
Mount Pollux - 4092 m
Region: Aosta Valley (Aosta) Province: Aosta
mountain groups: the Western Alps - Pennine Alps - Gruppo Monte Rosa
Location: Valle d'Ayas
GPS coordinates of the summit: E7 N45 55,669 47,119
Starting point: Saint-Jacques (alt. 1689 m) Slope
up: W
Gradient of climb: 2410 m
Total difference (up & down): 4820 m
Rise Time Total: 6.00 +3.00 h h h = 9.00
Day 1:
altitude difference 1736 m from St. Jacques, total time 6.00 h;
Below are summarized the main benchmarks and quotas:
Saint-Jacques (1670 m)
-Pian di Verra Bottom (2152 m), Pian di Verra
-Superior (2382 m) in 2:15 hours on foot from Saint Jacques, in hours 0 : 30 off-road-
Mezzalama Refuge (3004 m) in 1:45 hours from the floor Verra Superior
-val d'Ayas Guides hut (3420 m) in 2:00 hours from the refuge. Mezzalama
Day 2:
-674 m altitude difference, time 3.00 h-
Descending 674 m to the refuge, 3.00h + 1736 m to the country, around 3.30 / 4.00 h, a total of 6 , 30 / 7,00 h
Rating:
Alpine excursion on the glacier. A minimum capacity of rock climbing.
Ascent quite challenging and satisfying, with a 4000 for anything trivial careful of the crevasses on the glacier, debris and furniture on the ridge. Rock steps to deal with attention.
times can stretch a lot, especially those of descent, if you meet many people along the way (which seems rather likely on weekends).
type of climb: Track up glacier
period: summer, from July to August
Difficulty: EEA - AG - II - ADDifficoltÃ
hiking - EEA: for experienced hikers with via ferrata equipment on routes or paths
equipped mountaineering, where the frequency of equipment, the physical effort required and the high exposure
require the use of equipment for self-insurance and any insurance mutual.
type of climbing rose - AG: Ascent climbing on snow and ice, faces slopes above 35 degrees, ice ridges and channels, and requires ice climbing equipment (rope, harness, delays, carabiners, nuts and friends, any ice pitons, ice axes, crampons, helmet rock), requires experience, skills evaluation and training.
Difficulty climbing UIAA scale (Welzenbach) - The little difficult: It requires the movement of a limb at a time and a proper set of movements. Holds and supports are abundant. Difficulty climbing stairs
French - AD-: Quite difficult (difficult rock and ice climbing, steep snow / ice up to 40-50 °)
supporting points:
Ref Mezzalama (q. 3004 m - coord. GPS: N45 54 824 45 566 E7);
Ref Guide Val d'Ayas (alt. 3420 m - coord. GPS: N45 55,234 E7 46019)
Taxi service for off-road floor Superiore di Verra +39 0125.307997 +39 335.6626748
Equipment needed: glacier boots, helmet, harness, carabiners, rope, ropes, ice ax, crampons
, friends, referrals, nails Ice
summit book: no
Cartography: N. IGC 1:50.000 5, Matterhorn and Monte Rosa Matterthorn
INTRODUCTION
The Pollux stands between the Black Gate and the hill Verra and marks the divide between the Aosta Valley and the Valais,
dividing the basins of glacial Verra, Schwarze and Zwillings. It is presented by each side as a cone of ice
rocky path from some ribs. The name is relatively new and is of noble origin, such as the near Castore.Le two peaks, seen from the north, have many common traits and together form the group of Zwillings, the "twins".
The first ascent of Pollux took place on 1 August 1864 when the Geneva Jules Jacot, Peter Joseph and Mary Penner Taugwalder reached the summit, starting from the Black Gate.
FIRST DAY:
Access: From Saint-Jacques
you reach the village of Blanchard, which is located at the confluence of the rivers and Verra
Courtod, where does the Evançon: beyond the bridge begins trail that climbs in the Valley Verra. E 'can take a taxi to reach the Pian di Verra, 2050 m, thus avoiding some 400 vertical meters.
Description of the climb to the refuge:
Fiery It reached the village, where the path splits, then turn right and continue until you exit the vast Pian di Verra 2050 m. Continue on the path of the dirt road that must be followed to the end lower than the Pian di Verra (2400 m). Before dell'alpeggio turn left and prevents the path that climbs a steep grassy slope, crosses a plateau and then moves to the edge of the moraine, which in some places it narrows somewhat. Is prevented so easily to the hut Mezzalama 3004 m. From here you continue to work around the rocky ramparts sullasinistra above and to get on the glacier, passing the point less seracs. Continue in the glacial valley moving to the right and pointing to the continuation of the spur of Lambronecca, which emerges from the glacier. After reaching the top rocks, then climb the rib leading to the Val d'Ayas Guides hut 3425 m.
DAY
Description of the climb to the top: From the hut you reach the valley of the Verra glacier and continue east, pointing at the base of the south side of Castor. Without reaching the Colle di Verra, turns left and buy a little altitude, it prevents the base of the ridge southwest of Pollux. It deals with the first easy rocks, often covered with snow, leading to a prominence. This should be avoided on the left, then there are a fixed rope, which eliminates some smooth faces. You go through a stack (often covered with ice) equipped with a fixed rope, which gives access to a saddle. From this you take a left on the partition wall Rocky (also equipped with a fixed rope) that leads to 3991 listed on the shoulder to continue then the snow crest leading to the top. Go down the ascent route taking advantage of a short abseil into the partition wall below the shoulder.
Approach to drawn on rocks:
From the refuge we take the well marked trail that winds on the Great Glacier Verra (ice ax and crampons), twists and bumps and crevasses: reached an initial dip, past an area full of crevasses
(attention) and then continue the climb up the steepest slope, to the field of ice below the large hill Verra (3845 m, h 1.10). At this point, turn decisively to the left to navigate to the base across the rocky southwest ridge of Pollux, a ramp up to where it begins the rocky debris (h 1.30).
description of the way rock:
Climb the slope of debris and rubble very unstable (careful not to remove stones!) Until the height of the ramp, where you climb the ridge to the best (other possible traces who meet all above). Views down to Black Rock, Castor, and Lyskamm Breithorn. A section of trail alternates short passages on rocks (I, II), to be addressed carefully because of the altitude and verglas, until, coming out of a ledge, the crux of the street, equipped with chains: you traverse a flat plate and exposed (minimum support for the feet) up to a fireplace, which dates back to the best passing a boulder wedged (chain). Once in a collar, you climb the right wall (chain) with non-trivial climbing up to a comfortable terrace, now at the end of the difficulties, on which stands a Madonna. From here it appears to view the last part of the ridge that culminates in the icy summit of Pollux: new socks crampons, we climb the ridge (attention and exposure to a crevasse near the summit) and we come in on short slender peak (1.45 h from the attack of the rocks). Wonderful views of the peaks of Monte Rosa (in front of towers Punta Dufour 4634 m) on Mont Blanc, Gran Paradiso and, over the crest of the Breithorn, the sharp pyramid of the Matterhorn. Descent to 2.30 h in the same way.
ascent via West Slide
Difficulty: PD + / AD depending on the condition of the slide
Elevation gain: 350 m from the attack / 680 m from Ayas Guides hut
Rise Time: 1 hour from the attack / 2:30 to 3:00 hours from the Rifugio Guide Ayas
Material: standard climbing (rope, ice axes, crampons, ice screw had some particularly
window)
Exposure: West
WALL WEST -
ahead just in case good conditions of ice and snow from the base of the gully south-west, continue north along the base of Pollux to overcome completely the south-west ridge and reaching under the west wall. From here you climb the steep slope rather than linearly for about 150 meters until you get to view the dell'anticima Pollux is that our raises just above the rocky ridge. At this point, you cut short the slope heading south until you reach as the pre. The climb to the top is the same as described above. This route can be used as an alternative to the downhill stretch equipped.
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